Reflections on India
On our first visit to Southeast Asia in the winter of 2016-2017 we initially planned to visit Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. We planned to be traveling about three months. All along the way it became a little comical as fellow travelers kept asking us if we planned to include a visit to Myanmar. As our planned itinerary was nearing the conclusion we realized we were returning to the still cold weather of Portland, Oregon USA in mid-March. Why? So we heeded what was obviously the Universe’s clarion call to add a visit to Myanmar and we spent three weeks at several locations mostly in the north. Each of the countries in SE Asia are distinct yet so close geographically. Something about Myanmar’s mystery and history was an instant portal to our next travel destination which immediately consumed our dreams. India was calling. And we both felt ready to rise to the challenge!
We were under the impression that travel in India could be, would be challenging. We saw the benefit of not waiting any longer. We weren’t getting any younger!
We knew we wanted to stay more than what a 30 day tourist visa would allow us to see and do but weren’t really sure how long we would stay. At that time, if you didn’t arrange the 30 day visa, then the 10-year tourist visa was the next option. So we sent our passports to the Indian embassy in Washington, D.C. and they were returned with gorgeous 10-year tourist visas. We were ready to stay more than 30 days and less than the generous annual maximum of six months.
The following fall/winter 2017-2018 we ultimately did stay, perhaps surprisingly, the entire six months allowed by our visa, spending three months in northern India and three months in southern India. We fell in love with India, the people and the food. We loved the trains, we loved how chaotic things could be to get from point A to point B. It was a challenge and we rose to it. We absorbed India, we loved India and India loved us back. It cracked us wide open and busted our butts!
We returned after our epic, grand tour spending the summer back home in Portland. We never stopped talking about India, studying about India and we ate Indian food about five nights a week for dinner perfecting our homemade curry.
The following winter we spent in Panama and Costa Rica, but the fall and winter after that we returned to India for three more months discovering new destinations not our on initial itinerary.
We absorbed India, we loved India and India loved us back. It cracked us wide open and busted our butts! To this present day India is still one of our biggest teachers and closest friends — strange as that may sound, but true.
Jump now to the Heart-to-Heart tour summary, including India — or see detailed East India accommodations, activities and reviews below…
Rarely does the hotel staff shine more than the hotel itself. The Sonnet Hotel in Kolkata (property link) is one of those rare places! And it's a good mid-range, mega-city value in reasonable condition in a good location – also rare. Jackpot! And excellent 24-hour room service! Special acknowledgement and gratitude for Amrit at the front desk. We stayed four nights mid-October 2019 ($73/night including taxes and breakfast).
If you review online lists for the top 20 or 30 things to do in India a visit to the Sundarbans park might not be on the list. But a longer list of the top 50 destinations better include it! That’s our view. It’s a UNESCO-designated gem, off the beaten path and the perfect remedy to the bustle of Kolkata’s big city beat.
Just a three hour drive from our hotel in central Kolkata, we opted for a two-night all-inclusive package deal staying at the Tora Eco Resort (see below). It included private sedan round-trip transport from Kolkata (to/from the Gadkhali ghat), ferry transport to/from resort, double AC 3-star accommodation, all meals, all entry fees into park, private boat and required private guide. The price for two was a whopping $700. We tried to find it cheaper but that was the best we could do for a three star property. (Inventory in general was sparse.) No regrets. This quick trip afforded us two different floats through the mangroves (the afternoon upon arriving till sunset then the following morning through lunch) in search of the Bengal tiger (we saw fresh tracks only) and other wildlife. An additional night, or two, would have allowed a deeper exploration into this one-of-a-kind world-class park.
Two-thirds of the massive park is in neighboring Bangladesh adjacent. But still India’s portion is a very large area.
We discovered the Tora Eco Resort (and the all-inclusive package to the Sundarbans National Park, see above) through Kolkata friends we met in Assam at the Wild Mahseer homestay weeks earlier. After cold-contacting tour agencies to try to put together our dream, we were steered to Tora Eco Resort by our Indian friends in Assam/Kolkata. Turns out Anil Mistry, who administers a wonderful village-based initiative of which Tora is just part, is a notable Indian conservationist — and a former poacher! Read more about his story here… https://www.thebetterindia.com/172997/sunderbans-tigers-anil-mistry-wildlife-hero-india/.
Below are a few pics from Anil’s Tora Eco Resort & Life Experience Centre.
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