Reflections on India
On our first visit to Southeast Asia in the winter of 2016-2017 we initially planned to visit Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. We planned to be traveling about three months. All along the way it became a little comical as fellow travelers kept asking us if we planned to include a visit to Myanmar. As our planned itinerary was nearing the conclusion we realized we were returning to the still cold weather of Portland, Oregon USA in mid-March. Why? So we heeded what was obviously the Universe’s clarion call to add a visit to Myanmar and we spent three weeks at several locations mostly in the north. Each of the countries in SE Asia are distinct yet so close geographically. Something about Myanmar’s mystery and history was an instant portal to our next travel destination which immediately consumed our dreams. India was calling. And we both felt ready to rise to the challenge!
We were under the impression that travel in India could be, would be challenging. We saw the benefit of not waiting any longer. We weren’t getting any younger!
We knew we wanted to stay more than what a 30 day tourist visa would allow us to see and do but weren’t really sure how long we would stay. At that time, if you didn’t arrange the 30 day visa, then the 10-year tourist visa was the next option. So we sent our passports to the Indian embassy in Washington, D.C. and they were returned with gorgeous 10-year tourist visas. We were ready to stay more than 30 days and less than the generous annual maximum of six months.
The following fall/winter 2017-2018 we ultimately did stay, perhaps surprisingly, the entire six months allowed by our visa, spending three months in northern India and three months in southern India. We fell in love with India, the people and the food. We loved the trains, we loved how chaotic things could be to get from point A to point B. It was a challenge and we rose to it. We absorbed India, we loved India and India loved us back. It cracked us wide open and busted our butts!
We returned after our epic, grand tour spending the summer back home in Portland. We never stopped talking about India, studying about India and we ate Indian food about five nights a week for dinner perfecting our homemade curry.
The following winter we spent in Panama and Costa Rica, but the fall and winter after that we returned to India for three more months discovering new destinations not our on initial itinerary.
We absorbed India, we loved India and India loved us back. It cracked us wide open and busted our butts! To this present day India is still one of our biggest teachers and closest friends — strange as that may sound, but true.
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We stayed three nights (early January 2018) at the Shalimar Hotel a fairly well-located south Mumbai hotel property (Lifestyle Suite with breakfast Rs11,167 or US$175/night including GST and breakfast). If we were ever to go back to Mumbai (it felt unlikely) we would book a regular room and not their suite rooms.
We stayed three nights at Lemon Tree Hotel (early January 2018) at an exceedingly well-managed upscale resort property with a gorgeous pool and two good restaurants (Rs6,313 or US$99 including GST and breakfast). It was the perfect base from which to explore the nearby ancient stone-carved caves -- Aurangabad's claim to fame on the tourist circuit.
We traveled to 1,350 meters elevation (4,500 ft.) and the old British hill station of Mahabeleshwar and stayed three nights at Citrus Chambers Hotel (early January 2018) (Rs6,941 or US$109 including GST and breakfast). The room size was above average, on gorgeous heritage property with forested views affording a lovely sense of relaxation and perfectly situated near the center of town and the popular market where we strolled every evening, but -- and it's a big 'but' -- the property was in a shocking state of disrepair and in need of a complete makeover. The Citrus hotel chain (7 current properties in India -- soon growing to 19) should remove their name from this hotel until such time this is cleaned up. It was among the worst value for money on our entire trip.
We flew from Pune onward and stayed just one night at an upscale business hotel, the Keys Prima Hotel Parc Estique (Rs3,837 or US$60 including GST and breakfast). Very close to the airport, it is a well-run, stylish hotel -- great value. We booked the Classique room category but were upgraded to the Deluxe Ambient room. Very nice!
While in the State of Goa we visited the village of Siolim in the north along the coast.
We planned to stay only five nights (late January 2018) at the Siolim House a beautifully restored old house with a fabulous pool and a great staff. We ended up staying eight!
A statewide strike of taxi drivers descended upon us during our stay. It lasted three days. Our intended plans to stay three nights in south Goa along the beach were scuttled with no available easy auto-transport to deliver us there about 2 1/2 hours away.
So we stayed the entire time at Siolim House and enjoyed every minute of it!
We stayed four nights at Heritage Resort in Hampi (late February 2018) (deluxe cottage with breakfast Rs5,703 or US$89 not including GST).
We stayed one night at Denissons Hotel in Hubballi (late February 2018) (premium room with breakfast Rs4,944 or US$77 including GST).
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